Taking place on a snowy hillside in Switzerland, Virgil Abloh has presented his latest collection for Louis Vuitton, showcasing the men’s Fall/Winter 2021 offering in what he calls “Ebonics / Snake Oil / The Black Box / Mirror, Mirror.”
The collection feels fresh, revived, inspired, and reflective of a world we live in today, all while examining the “unconscious biases instilled in our collective psyche by the archaic norms of society.” The show then switches into a light-flooded room at the Tennis Club de Paris filled with a monolithic green marble structure, altogether referencing James Baldwin’s essay Stranger in the Village in which the author described the time spent in the Swiss village.
The fashion show consisted of three acts expressed through dance, ice skating, poetry, and scenography, where models walked around the sculpture with some laying on the floor, against the wall, or sitting on Mies van der Rohe and Lilly Reich’s iconic Barcelona Chair, nodding to Abloh’s idealization of the artist, the drifter, the architect, the salesman, and other archetypical characters of society.
Standout pieces from the collection include a transparent monogram suit, a sweater finished with mirrored LV monograms that embellish the garment like snowflakes, and a sculptural jacket. Elsewhere, we see more reflective accessories as well as new takes on house classics such as the Christopher backpack that now comes in Epi leather with a spray-painted effect, and notably, some sculptural pieces using original monogram leather, delivering an airplane bag that nods to the collection’s invites.
Speaking on the collection, Abloh says, “Within my practice, I contribute to a Black canon of culture and art and its preservation. This is why, to preserve my own output, I record it at length.”